It seldom seems to happen – in this country, anyway – that a restaurant's best asset is its kitchen. Lots of places are long on atmosphere, and nowadays you can even count on reasonably good service at most higher-end restaurants. But good chefs are still few and far between.
One of the exceptions is U Emy Destinnové, whose owner and head chef Steven Trumpfheller outclasses both his restaurant's location and its waitstaff. His menu is eclectic but not unfocused, a mix of mostly American and Italian-style classics.
I just can't g
et over the pumpkin risotto (180 CZK) I had there the other night. Creamy without being too heavy, the dish was a perfect balance of flavors. That was also because of one other crucial addition: bacon, fried to near crispiness (this is an American chef, after all, who knows how to cook his bacon) and folded into the risotto in small pieces. The fact is that bacon will make more or less any dish taste better – I recently sampled some bacon-flavored chocolate, and I loved it – but in the risotto, combined with the pumpkin's distinctive sweetness and the sharp tang of Parmesan, it was a truly inspired combo.
I couldn't say as much for U Emy Destinnové's interior design. Before the restaurant's recent renovation, it had a quirky, old-fashioned living room feel to it, with lots of strange knickknacks and some ratty gray couches left over from its previous incarnation as Czech restaurant JB Club. The getup felt a bit inappropriate for the food, to be sure, so a refurb was definitely in order. Now, the place has been tidied up and the couches have been reupholstered, but it's lost some of its charm. The beige walls are a little drab, and the maroon-colored runners over the tables feel out of date, like something you'd find in an old hotel restaurant in Communist-era Czechoslovakia.
On my second visit, there was a massive group dinner taking up the whole of the large front room (U Emy Destinnové offers several banquet menus), so my friends and I were seated in the little room in the back. That would have been perfectly cozy if we hadn't been within spitting distance of the bathrooms – they were separated from us by a partition wall, but every time someone left the toilet door open we were washed over by a familiar, unpleasant aroma. Because there was no self-closing mechanism on the bathroom doors, one of us would have to get up and shut them ourselves – and I don't especially like playing toilet porter on an evening out to dinner.
Then there was the problem of the lights being too dim, making it hard to read the menu and see the food properly. And although live piano music is a nice idea, this particular piano player didn't really do it for me. His style was aggressive and unpleasant, not fading gently into the background as it should have, but overriding our conversation. Moreover, he had a creepy habit of staring directly at me and my female friend for long periods of time as he played.
During earlier, pre-renovation visits to U Emy Destinnové, I remember being bowled over by the service. This time, it wasn't bad by any means – particularly on my first visit, when the waiter was impressively on point – but it did occasionally seem slightly amateurish. During the first evening, the server eagerly told us what dishes they had available as specials, but on the second, I had to ask if they had any specials before he thought to tell us. And I found their rattling off of all the aperitifs they had on offer (even when we had already declined) a little annoying.
Still, I was impressed with how timely the service was, even with that massive group in the front room. I had been dismayed when we first walked in that night – usually, kitchens get overwhelmed by the demands of the banquet and the timing of the smaller tables' meals suffers. But everything came out at just the right moment, and they even found the opportunity to show us the lamb and swordfish they had on special that night.
I had the swordfish in the form of a carpaccio (215 CZK), and it was great – fresh, beautifully sliced, and arranged around a small salad with capers and cherry tomatoes. They have a thing for raw meat here, with three kinds of carpaccio (including bison carpaccio with dried figs and pecorino cheese, 215 CZK), a lamb tartare, and often a couple of additional types of carpaccio on the specials list. But there are other tasty appetizers, too, such as the deep-fried calamari, zucchini, and lemon (155 CZK) or the wild French duck breast with blackberry port wine demi-glaze (175 CZK).
There are a lot of originals here, and having seen the same dishes over and over again on local menus, I can appreciate the ingenuity – especially when it comes out right. The golden capon chicken served over sweet corn relish (230 CZK) was tender and juicy, with browned, crispy skin, and its mildly creamy sweet corn sauce was a nice little bit of Americana to go with it. Paired with some fluffy garlic mashed potatoes (65 CZK), this was real soul food.
So, the American in the basement of famous Czech opera singer Ema Destinnová's birth house can really cook. I'm not totally convinced by his baking (the Philadelphia cheesecake, 105 CZK, had a very soggy crust), but I only managed to sample one dessert. The portions are big, and the prices are remarkably decent. I would urge you to give U Emy Destinnové a chance. Even if a few of the other elements are a little out of place, the food is definitely worth it.
U Emy Destinnové
Kateřinská 7
Praha 2 - Nové Město
map
Tel.: 224 918 425
Open Mon-Fri 11:30-23:30, Sat 18:00-23:30. Closed Sunday.
images 1, 2, 6 Tomáš Krist for Lidové Noviny; all others uemydestinnove.cz
This review originally appeared in Czech translation in the 03/10/09 edition of Lidové Noviny.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Restaurant Review: U Emy Destinnové
Monday, October 20, 2008
Restaurant Review: Luka Lu
This review originally appeared in Czech translation in the 27/09/08 edition of Lidové Noviny.
Every week, I have the task of figuring out which restaurant I'm going to review next. I take into consideration the kinds of places I did recently, what people might enjoy reading about, and any interesting tips I may have received.
Once I've made a decision, I schedule my visits. I like to go at least twice to each restaurant, preferably for both lunch and dinner. Eating at the same spot two or three days in a row can be kind of boring, so I try to leave some time in between.
And then I need to work out who's coming with me.
Believe i
t or not, it can be hard to recruit people. Friends and family who once saw eating out with a restaurant critic as an exciting novelty have started angling for a little more choice in the matter, realizing that they'd prefer to eat at the restaurants they already know and love. "Can't we just go to Café Savoy again?" they say. "We know it's good." One friend has even become convinced that her presence is a curse and the food turns out to be bad every time she comes along (it has, but I'm pretty sure it's not her fault).
Although trying out restaurants that I otherwise might never set foot into is part of my job, eating alone isn't all that fun. That's why I occasionally do my restaurant-going companions – and myself – a favor and pick a place I know they're going to love.
This week, that place was Luka Lu. When I wrote about it for a different publication some time ago, I brought my brother along to dinner and he fell in love with a certain octopus dish he tried there. So he was very happy to have an excuse to visit again.
As his luck would have it, of course, the restaurant didn't have any octopus left. After the waitress informed him of this, my brother promptly shot me an accusatory look, as if I was the one who'd done Luka Lu's grocery shopping that day. He reluctantly picked another dish.
Fortunately, it's hard to make a bad choice at Luka Lu. The menu features a nice selection of Balkan- and Italian-inspired meals, including čevapčiči, pastas, and various fish entrées. It's not the most sophisticated food in the city, but that's partly why I like it. This is straightforward, family-style fare, the kind you might find in a tucked-away little restaurant in Sarajevo, or, better yet, on the dining table of a Balkan home.
Luka Lu describes itself as the child of an adventurous Italian father and a calm, simple Bosnian mother. This assessment makes perfect sense: the unpretentious food is, naturally, the work of the mama. And you only need to take one look at the interior design to see where the boisterous Italian side comes in.
Owner Veso Djorem's long culinary career has seen him open ten different restaurants in Prague and Sarajevo, including the now-defunct Dolly Bell in Vyšehrad and another Malá Strana spot called Gitanes. His ventures are known for their signature decorative style: colorful and cluttered, with the occasional upside-down table hanging from the ceiling.
Glance upwards in Luka Lu's front room and you'll see a fully-laid-out sewing table, complete with machine, half-finished garment, and a pair of fluffy slippers. Bright murals depict a cartoon-ish harbor, and wooden windows and a little balcony are superimposed on the walls. It's playful kitsch, warm and welcoming and entirely different from the morose minimalism espoused by so many Prague restaurants.
But the best part of the interior isn't even visible until you turn a corner and walk down a narrow hallway. That's where you'll find Luka Lu's winter garden, a beautiful, airy room with a glass ceiling, pretty tiles, and plenty of plants. There were a couple of new additions here on my last visit, neither of which I'm too sure about: a big soda fridge and a birdcage full of squawking parakeets. The fridge detracts from the atmosphere for obvious reasons; the birdcage does add some liveliness, but assorted avian debris had ended up on the table and chairs we were led to by the waitress. We ended up changing seats.
In the very back of Luka Lu is a beautiful outdoor courtyard with wooden plank floors and glowing lanterns. I discovered this gem of a garden a little too late for the summer season, but I'll be sure to remember it for next year. The service can be a bit slow – especially if you're sitting in the rear areas – and there's been the occasional mix-up on my visits there, but at least everyone's friendly and relaxed.
Luka Lu (which translates as Harbor Lu) has been designed to evoke a konoba, or traditional Croatian-style seaside restaurant equivalent to a Greek taverna. Fittingly, seafood is the specialty here. Besides the aforementioned traditionally prepared octopus (350 CZK), there are also fried anchovies and fried sardines (175 and 180 CZK, respectively), and various fresh fish prepared on the restaurant's lava grill.
Red meat lovers will appreciate some of the Balkan specialties, such as the tasty kebab-like čevapčiči (160 CZK for 10 pieces; they're not as good as some I've had in Sarajevo, but are still worth a try) and the rich pljeskavice (something like a hamburger patty) stuffed with cheese (195 CZK). I was especially impressed by a traditional lamb dish (285 CZK) made in a special pan called a sač – the meat was so juicy and tender it was falling off the bone.
The broken English on Luka Lu's website says that "Wicked tongues say that most people cross the Vltava river and stay in the Lesser Quarter because of [Luka Lu]'s untameable beauty and not because of good food and wine." They're selling themselves a little short. The atmosphere might be the big initial draw, but there's more to like than the pretty décor.
Just ask my brother. Octopus or no octopus, he's already itching to go again.
Luka Lu
Újezd 33
Praha 1 – Malá Strana
Tel: 257 212 388
images: lukalu.cz
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Food news: Prague gets its first Michelin star
As has been widely reported in the local press, the Czech Republic can now claim i
ts first Michelin star. The winner of the coveted French honor is Prague Four Seasons Hotel's Allegro, helmed by Italian chef Andrea Accordi. Michelin's lesser prize, the Bib Gourmand ("good food at good prices") was re-awarded to last years' honorees, Aromi, Brasserie M, and Le Terroir. For those who read Czech, my op-ed piece for Lidové Noviny about Michelin and its significance (or lack therof) for Czech gastronomy can be found here. The 2008 Michelin Red Guide: Main cities of Europe will be published in May.
Speaking of Michelin favorites, both Allegro and Brasserie M will have special Easter menus prepared for the holiday. Meanwhile, CzecHouse is to hol
d their lavish annual Easter brunch on Sunday, and Oliva will be serving up spring lamb specialties all weekend, starting today.
Jiří Štift has announced that he'll be leaving his executive chef position at the Radisson SAS (home of Alcron and La Rotonde) to open a restaurant of his own. La Rotonde will be running a fresh fish and seafood special until the end of the month.
And after months of rumors about its closure, Dinitz has indeed closed -- and reopened as Metropol Music Club / Oriental Restaurant, with a full kitchen running every night until 1 a.m. More on that once I check it out for myself.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Food news: I'll have the scallops. And hold the tobacco, please
At a recent dinner, an American friend of mine was surprised to find out that the "mussels St. Jacob" she had ordered actually weren't mussels, but scallops. The mistake was in the translation: in Czech, scallops are "mušle Svatého Jakuba," which, if translated literally, can mean "St. Jacob's mussels." On that note, Oliva is holding a scallop event this weekend. Have a look at the menu here.
If you've never tried Persian food before, now's your chance: the Hotel Praha, in conjunction with the Islamic 
Republic of Iran, is hosting a Festival of Persian Cuisine on February 20th and 21st from 19:00. Entry is only 400 CZK and includes Iranian cooking demonstrations and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Call 224 342 621 for reservations.
For a few days only, Italian chef Christian Bertogna is leaving his post at the Ristorante Imperiolino to cook at the Hotel Paris's Sarah Bernhardt restaurant. A four-course menu costs 850 CZK; the event runs through Sunday.
And if inhaling cigarette smoke with your food irritates you as much as it does me, take a look at this handy website. Sponsored by the Czech Anti-Tobacco Coalition, dokurte.cz maintains a list of restaurants that are smoke-free or have separate areas for smokers. Until the Czech Republic decides to wise up and follow the example of its European neighbors, it's the best we can do.
images: olivarestaurant.cz, insiderpages.com, usmlemd.wordpress.com
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Food news: Seafood and sushi, as the Václavák sausage party rages on
There've been a fair amount of seafood events happening around town lately. Now, CzecHouse is doing one of their own: a special lobster and shellfish menu that runs from the 15th to the 24th of February. See the full menu (including suggested wine pairings) here.
Zahrada v Opeře recently welcomed a new executive chef, Martial Clement, to their funky-hip quarters in the Radio Free Europe building. They've also begun featuring weekly "Sushi Days"every Tuesday through Saturday; the Japanese 
delicacies are prepared by chef Tadayoshi Ebina.
Upscale Indian restaurant Khajuraho has moved from its original location in the Iron Gate Hotel to a new spot down the street on Michalská. The hotel plans to open a new restaurant, The Iron Gate, in the spring.
And for those of you who love your klobása, you can rest a little easier tonight: it's been announced that the Václavské náměstí sausage stands will remain in business after all. Prague City Hall backed down from its plan to shut down the outdoor vendors after 9000 people signed a petition in protest.
images: hiltonprague.cz, zahradavopere.cz
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Food news: Calamari, Chinese New Year, and culinary facelifts
Oliva is having a great squid special this weekend: all-you-can-eat calamari for 690 CZK. The offer is available during dinner this Thursday and Friday and lunch and dinner on Saturday. More info -- including a full menu -- can be found here.
New Asian fusion restaurant Angel is also hosting a couple of events this week. They'll be putting together a special dinner in honor of Chinese New Year on Thursday, 
and will be serving their very first brunch on Sunday (the menu should be posted soon).
For another Chinese New Year option, check out Monsoon's website. They'll also be featuring a special set menu on Thursday, priced at 545 CZK for five courses.
The area around Vězeňská street has seen a fair amount of restaurant refurbishment action lately. Pilsner Urquell chain pub Kolkovna has reopened, looking about the same as it always did on the main floor (although I didn't get a chance to check the basement). Albar café (formerly Blatouch) is now Alforno, an Italian pizza joint; the Aldente Trattoria next door has stayed intact. And across the street, winery Vino di Vino is set to transform into Luna di Notte, a "restaurant and live music lounge," with the official opening scheduled for next week.
Finally, Polish casual dining chain Sphinx has opened its first Czech location on Na Příkopě, in the spot previously held by concept restaurant 120 Days. It's something along the lines of T.G.I. Friday's, but with a Middle Eastern twist: the menu lists kebabs and shawarma alongside steaks, onion rings, garlic bread, and pizza. Let's just hope Sphinx is a little less overpriced than its neighbor.
images: fishfanatics.co.uk, monsoon-restaurant.cz, aldentetrattoria.cz, sphinx.cz
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Oyster Weekend @ Oliva
Prague 2's popular Mediterranean restaurant Oliva is having a special oyster event this weekend. Oliva is one of my personal favorites, and I'm pretty sure these oysters will be great. Here's what you can expect (for those who don't like oysters, the traditional menu will also be available):
- oysters with traditional cold dip à la marché Les Halles
- gratinated oysters in Sabayon cream
- gratinated oysters with pancetta, mango, parmesan, and herbs
- creamy lettuce soup with oyster cappuccino
- oysters in cream sauce with cider and fresh spinach
- monkfish in fine oyster butter sauce served with leek fond and bacon chips
- fillet of seabass with oyster and mussel Palourde sauce on squid ink spaghetti
I'm going to be away this weekend, so I'll be missing this one. Let me know how you liked it!
Oyster Special Event @ Oliva
January 17 & 18 (dinner)
January 19 (lunch and dinner)
Plavecká 4
Prague 2 - New Town
Tel: +420 222 520 288
image: olivarestaurant.cz
